July 23
Yesterday we hiked Damnation trail. It starts at Highway 101 and descends one thousand feet through old growth redwoods all the way to the ocean. From the tops of the trees two hundred feet above, sunlight is filtered through the mist to softly light acre sized patches of ferns and delicate moss coating the branches of smaller trees. Every hundred feet or so, the trail curves around the trunk of another gargantuan redwood and the view all around is of one after another fifteen foot diameter bark covered columns rising up into the canopy. The trail was used by Native Americans to hike down to the ocean, and walking it is like stepping back in time. The trail dead ends at a little outcropping of rock where a small stream empties into the sea. We had lunch there and had fun picking through the driftwood.
Four percent of the old growth Redwoods are left. One out of twenty five escaped the chain saw and those would be gone too if not for the national parks and conservation efforts. What a shining example of the rapacious nature of capitalism, the true religion of America. It’s no small irony we print “In God We Trust” on our money. What a subtle way to say, “It’s all up for grabs.” The same type of thing is happening with mountain top removal in Appalachians right now. The
Chinese are paying top dollar for coal, so screw the mountains. Maybe I can find some solace for my tree-hugging, commi-pinko heart in Portland where we’re headed as I write this. It’s supposed to be one of the greenest cities in the States. We’re going to be camping on the Columbia River and should be there by six or seven tonight.
We looked for lunch today in Crescent City as we started the trip to Portland and have some sad news to report to James. Glens bakery is closed and has been for a while. We couldn’t sample the blackberry pie he recommended and now have a deep-seated yearning for same that only some local operation will be able to fill. The blackberries are in season here and they are delicious, but we’ll only be satisfied when we taste them in the form James planted in our minds.
Glad to see your recent post. Although I have yet to comment,I have eagerly read your travelogue and have enjoyed the trip vicariously through you and your family. I was beginning to wonder if the RV rolled off a cliff or your laptop was stolen because I didn't see any posts for a few days. I called my parents to report the sad news about Glen's (that was their recommendation which I borrowed)and they are crestfallen. They are making a trip up that way in another couple weeks and were already working up a lather for the blackberry pie. Sounds like you all are having a memorable trip. Keep the posts coming. We look forward to getting together and hearing all the details when you return to Roanoke. Travel safely.
ReplyDeleteJames
We think Glen my have died, there was a sign on the door saying something about "in memorium" and also a realtor plaque in the window. Thanks so much for the list of sights to see and food to sample. Today we had the tastiest Vietnamese food ever at a place called Silk in downtown Portland. What a great city. I'll try to post more often, but wi fi isn't available at some of the campsites we've been to, and I have to fight the kids for access because I'm typing it on their computers. Hope everything is going great back home.
ReplyDeleteWhen I spoke to my folks they said that Glen had died about a year ago and his son was running it but had been looking for a buyer because he was having a hard time running it by himself. Thus, he must have finally sold the place. Glad you guys are having such a nice time. Lots of fun to be on the road. I have heard of Silk and will include it on my list of establishments to visit.
ReplyDeleteIt's 12:35AM here, so I guess it's 9:35 where you are. I hope you've found a good campsite and are comfy. I was happy to hear from you today.
ReplyDeleteLove, mom